The unofficial glossary which immodestly dissects Switzerland. Get through the looking glass and find out through this survey of customs, cultural phenomena and historical anecdotes what really makes this country so unique.

By Camille Bozonnet

Ballenberg/Mario Botta
From antique to upper modernity

What you may not be familiar with is the history of Swiss architecture. Jump from Ballenberg’s open-air museum to Mario Botta’s works and you’ll have a pretty good idea of the story : from 100 historic farmhouses (16th to 19th century)… to Ticino’s famous contemporary architect/designer’s works found all around the world – and also in Lugano (TI), Neuchâtel (NE), Basel (BS), Cologny (GE)… Don’t miss the opportunity to learn 500 years of building history in just two afternoon trips.

Bank secrecy
Nantes Edict — collateral benefit

Hard to believe. However, the first “international” clients of the Swiss banks happened to be the French kings, who did not want people to know their sponsors were the so-declared heretical Protestants. Thus, in 1713 the Geneva Grand Council adopted regulations that ruled in favour of bank secrecy… still in force in the 160 different banking institutions spread over the territory. Necessity knows no law, says the French proverb. Is that really so ?!

Carnotzet
Kind of male chauvinism

With walls of wood, this cellar from Valais used to be a place strictly reserved for men where they could sip wine, savour the local products (hard cheeses, salted hams, dry pork sausages), smoke and talk. Not anymore. But Valais has many other surprises in store for you : it is Switzerland’s biggest vine-growing district, having the highest European vineyard in Visperterminen (1500m). Note that Switzerland produced 46 million litres of wine in 2004, the equivalent of 6.6 liters per head : it’s not worth fantasizing about what’s going on in a male carnotzet.

Chocolate
Deadly sin No. 4

Once upon a time Eve dared to eat the forbidden fruit. She got us chucked out of Paradise and led the way to greediness, one of the seven deadly sins. Swiss people are excellent at succumbing to it, let’s just mention their first place in the worldwide consumption of chocolate, a long way ahead of Belgium, France and the USA. That the 2004 figures are on a spectacular scale shouldn’t come as a surprise – 11.6 kg per head. Fortunately, greed’s price only concerns half the Swiss, the catholic ones, and every sin is said to be forgiven. Is it indeed ?

Cuckoo clock
End of the myth

Cuckoo clocks are not originally Swiss. They were invented in 1730 in the Black Forest, Germany, and first made in Bohemia. Franz Anton Keller, wondering how to make the cock crow in Prague’s well known cathedral clock, created the mechanism. Fellows got the idea to use the sentry box as the cuckoo clock’s box and to decorate the gable with greeneries, forest animals, hunting scenes – and the cuckoo clock became a big hit. The Swiss cuckoo clock myth can be accredited to the Helvetian clockmakers who improved the mechanism by replacing the wooden components with iron ones.

Double cream
To die for

This anti-diet double cream is a typical by-product of the Fribourg cheese commerce. Talking about figures, the 691'000 Swiss cows produced 3.94 million tons of milk in 2004 – that is to say 5.680 kg for each cow. Not bad. Annual consumption equalled 438 kg per head, meaning 1.2 kg per person per day. So much for the Heidi look !

Edelweiss
Another trap to fall into

Sure, you’d bet edelweiss is Swiss. So do most of us. The alpine summits’ flower known as the emblem of Switzerland and the symbol of countryside preservation actually comes from… Siberia, but immigrated into Europe during the ice age. Obviously a successful integration.